Posted on Leave a comment

Atari 400 repair

The Atari 8 bit computers have always been a bit of a mystery to me. I never owned one myself when i was younger, and only ever got to play on an Atari XEGS a couple of times at a friends house. I have a few different ones now but I didnt have an Atari 400. So when one popped up for sale at a good price, and with my new favourite words, faulty – spares or repairs, I jumped at the chance.

True to the description, when I powered on the unit, all I got was a red screen. I started with all the normal checks, were the power levels correct? Was the reset circuit working? Do I have a clock signal, and do the data bus and address bus lines look ok?

All of these checks appeared to be fine, so that always makes the repair slightly more difficult. Since I have a few other Atari’s I decided just to try swapping over the CPU and Pokey chips as they can fail. Both checked out fine so I marked them with a nice little tick just to remind myself in case I ever started second guessing the fault.

Now seemed like a good time to bust out my thermal camera, annoyingly I forgot to take a photo of this, but I noticed that one of the ROM chips was getting a lot hotter than the other two. I did a bit of reading up and found the Atari 400 has 3 ROM chips, The first 2 contain the OS ROM which are 4k each, then the 3rd contain an FPP (Floating Point Package) ROM which is 2K. This was the chip that was getting pretty toasty.

Concentrating on this chip now, I started looking on the oscilloscope and noticed that although in my first test the data bus and address bus looked fine, what I was now seeing was when the computer is first turned on, the data bus was held high across all pins for a few seconds and then faded down to normal activity. Something very strange going on!

To see if the FPP chip was causing this weird behaviour, I pulled it out and turned on the computer once more and was pretty shocked to see the following screen.

So it was alive! But how? Since I still had the ROM chip in my hand. Well, it turns out the Atari 400 will actually run fine with the FPP ROM removed, right until it needs to do something with the maths stored in this ROM.

So this was good news. The computer itself appears fine and I just have a faulty ROM chip. The issue now is the Atari uses customised 2316 style ROM chips which are hard to get these days. So I turned my attention to one of the 23xx EPROM adapters which allow you to use an M27C64 in place of the 2316 chip.

I ordered one of these from eBay as I didn’t have any in my parts bin.

Whilst waiting for that to turn up I decided to keep on troubleshooting just in case the ROM chip turned out not to be the issue, but instead maybe the chip select circuit wasn’t working. I actually went down a bit of a rabbit hole on this one, since there were 3 ROM chips, I really wanted to understand how the correct chip got chosen. So I found a copy of the memory map for the Atari. Looked at the memory locations for the OS ROM and the FPP ROM, translated these addresses into binary, and then from that worked out that address line 11 through to 15 were what was being decoded into the chip select lines via a 74LS42, 4 Line BCD to 10 Line Decimal Decoder.

As an example, if the last 5 bits on the address bus were 11011, This would set pin 18 on the FPP ROM chip (One of it’s 3 chip select lines) to high, then pin 21 on the FPP ROM chip to high, then the last 3 bits 011 would go to inputs ABC on the 74LS42, which would cause it to set the final chip select line on the FPP ROM to low. This combination of High High Low is the correct combination to select this specific chip.

I used the same logic above to work out how the Lower and Upper OS ROM chips were selected. This is where I hit a bit of an issue. The schematics I was looking at, combined with the decoding above didn’t add up. There was no way the computer could select the Lower ROM or the Upper ROM by themselves, it would always select both ROM chips.

I was fairly sure my workings out were correct, so I went in search of different schematics for the Atari 400. When I found some, even though they were low quality, I was pleasently suprised to see that the first schematics I was looking at were indeed wrong. For some reason I was pretty happy about this, it meant that I understood how the system worked well enough that I could actually disagree with the schematics that were right in front of me.

Notice on the left picture above that ROM 103 and 104 both have the same Chip Select combination, where as on the slightly blurry image, Pin 21 is Active High on one and Active Low on the other. If you are wondering about the 3rd chip select line, it is actually A11 (I would have to work it out, but I think it is used as a chip select on the FPP ROM but may actually be used as an address line on the OS ROM, something to ponder another day).

After all of that I decided the chip select logic all looked to be fine, and my issue was still likely to be the ROM chip itself.

After a couple of days the 23xx adapter arrived and I spent a long time trying to configure it correctly to emulate the FPP ROM. It took me a lot longer than I care to imagine to realise that the pins on the back, of which you need to bridge two of them, were actually in the order 321 rather than 123 (Why!!!!!), once I had worked that out, I set up the adapter by bridging pins 2-3 on 18,20 and 21. Then bridging 5 as the output pin. I wrote the FPP ROM code to my AT28C64 EEPROM chip, and since this was a 64kbit chip instead of a 16, I repeated the ROM code 4 times to fill the chip (I did try it just at address 0000 but that didn’t work, so remember to do this step).

Finally I was ready to plug in the new ROM chip and when I powered on the computer I was greated with Memo Pad. Now the issue here is Memo Pad actually worked without the FPP ROM installed so I wasn’t really testing anything yet, apart from it wasn’t giving me a red screen.

I happened to have an ATARI SALT Diagnostics cartridge kicking around (Yes I did try this at the start of my repair, but it wouldn’t run with the computer in the state it was in). The good thing about this cartridge is you can just burn an EEPROM and stick it in this cartridge to test ROM files. So I download an Atari BASIC ROM as I had read that this needs the FPP ROM to fucntion.

First test was to pull out my new ROM replacement and try Atari BASIC. It loaded and I got the ready prompt, but then a load of garbage appaeared on the screen and it crashed.

Next I placed my FPP ROM back in the socket, repeated the test and this time I had a fully functioning Atari 400.

All that was left was to re-assemble to computer and feel happy that I’d saved yet another computer and gained a lot more knowledge of the Atari 400 along the journey.

And here it is, The Atari 400!

Posted on 2 Comments

Hispeedido N64 HDMI mod

Recently, a friend of mine asked for advice on modding his N64 to allow for hdmi output as he was using one of the cheap AV to hdmi adapters and not getting very good results.

This gave me the opportunity to test out the Hispeedido N64 mod board.

This mod comes with a nice ribbon cable, making it a fairly simplistic install. Although I would say this is not for the beginner and a digital microscope is pretty essential with this one to see what you are doing.

I lined up the ribbon and then used some kapton tape to hold in in place whilst soldering, making sure to use plenty of flux.

Once everything was installed, a small cutout to the case was needed to allow for the mini hdmi port to be accessible on the back of the machine.

After this, it was time to put everything back together and check to see how the device performed.

Overall, I was pretty impressed with the quality and I would say it was on par with my NTSC RGB modded SNES which I used to have hooked up via an OSSC. So for the £35 the device cost, I would say it is very much worth it.

It even has a built in menu which can be accessed by pressing Start+A+B at the same time. This gives a few basic options of changing some colour settings and also the aspect ration.

if you have the ability to do fine soldering, then I would definitely recommend this mod 😀

Posted on 1 Comment

A Quantum Leap! The Sinclair QL

My latest eBay purchase was a Sinclair QL fully boxed with manual, power supply and a bunch of microdrive cartridges. This was again listed as not working so was expecting to do another repair.

When it arrived my first test was to check the voltages coming from the power supply. Nothing seemed to be being output so this was definately one of the issues I needed to sort. I didn’t want to make a start repairing this one yet as I am still working on the MSX2. But I thought I’d just open up the power supply and check for any obvious issues.

It all looked clean inside the PSU, so I plugged it back in to check some of the voltage lines only to find they now all looked fine. I checked the voltages at the connector end again and once again everything looked good.

I can only assume a loose connection at this point so I put it all back together for now. I then plugged the QL in to find it all seemed to be working perfectly. I tested both microdrives and they worked fine also.

The only issue I discovered was the keyboard membrane had a break in one of the tracks. This is a common fault with these old membrane based keyboards and luckily brand new ones are still available so I have ordered one and just need to wait a few days for that to arrive.

So, I think I got another pretty good deal with this one. Bit of a shame that it wasn’t much of a repair as I really enjoy getting stuck into that (The MSX2 repair has been great fun in that respect so will post an update about that shortly).

Anyway, here it is. The Sinclair QL

Posted on Leave a comment

MSX2 repair update: It’s working!

When I recieved this MSX2, I had concerns as it had certainly already had a reapair attempted on it. What if this person had tried everything and discovered that a custom chip had blown and it was unrepairable?

Well, I decided to carry on regardless and work through the issue myself. To start off with I checked the basics on the CPU. Clock signal, reset circuit, data and address buses. They all looked fine.

The video circuit all seemed to be operational, I could see the 15khz sync signal but the composite video output was just black.

I noticed that the CAS signal for the main RAM was missing, which suggested that the CPU wasn’t successfully executing code, even though there was a bunch of activity going on. My first assumption was bad memory. I socketed both the video RAM and the main RAM and swapped chips around but it made no difference.

I decided to add a useful tool to my inventory and purchased a mini DRAM tester off Ebay.

One by one I inserted the DRAM chips and they all tested good. Not quite as simple as a RAM fault then.

After reading through the schematics for the Sony HB-F1XD (The closest MSX2 I could find to my model) I noticed the VDP read and write signals came from a custom IC on the board labelled as a MB64H444.

I checked with my thermal camera and noticed this chip stayed completely cold when powered on. My first concern was maybe this chip was completely dead which would be game over for this computer as they are virtually impossible to purchase.

I found the pinout for this chip and probed every pin with my scope. Everything seemed to be in order.

It was at this point that I put the scope back on the composite video pin and noticed it was showing a signal!

How could this be? I’ve not changed anything!

Even though I don’t have the replacement hic board yet, I hard wired the composite video output from the vdp chip into my little monitor and there it was, a perfect working image.

Although I was happy that the computer was working and that all of the custom chips were good. I don’t like things just fixing themselves as it can always break again.

And that is exactly what happened. But I discovered that by putting some pressure on the board I could break and fix the computer at will.

My next job was to find the bad connection, so I started re-flowing the solder joints on the chips in the area where I was bending the board. I also reflowed the solder on the MB64H444 chip. At this point the computer was non working and bending the board wouldn’t bring it back to life. Back to square one 😞

Only this time, I knew all the components were working and I was looking for a bad trace or solder joint.

I went back over the MB64H444 IC as this was the last thing I touched, and that is when I noticed no activity on the A13 address line. Could it really be that simple?

As a temporary test, I soldered a bodge wire from A13 on the MB64H444 up to A13 on the ROM chip.

I crossed my fingers and powered on the machine which greeted me immediately with the MSX logo. And no amount of flexing the board would cause it to not work.

The entire computer brought to a halt because of a bad trace on one of the address lines to this MB64H444 chip.

I’m still not 100% sure what role this chip plays in this computer. The schematics list it as a speed controller. So I will be doing some more reading up now to see why this issue caused the machine to not boot.

I have alsp sourced a modern replacement for the HIC board now, so once this arrives, I will be able to put this computer fully back together and start using it.

There is something so satisfying when you finally find the issue with these old machines.

If you have anything sat in your loft broken and you fancy donating it, I will do my best to bring any computer back from the dead and give it a good home 😀

Posted on 3 Comments

MSX2 repair project

My next repair project is this Sony MSX2 computer. Purchased as not working (black screen).

Unfortunately this machine has a bit more to its history than the eBay advert let on. Upon opening it I noticed that the problematic HIC1 board (The video out multiplexer that tends to suffer from corrosion on these machines) was not only missing, but pin headers had been fitted in its place.

This tells me two things. The hic board on this machine had indeed failed. But also, someone had replaced it with the modern replacement hic board but I guess it still didn’t fix the problem so they took it back out and sold the computer.

So, I need to either build or source a hic board for starters. But even then I probably still need to get the actual machine running.

I have already gone over the board with my scope to see if I can see what is going on. For starters it seems the computer tries to start for a few seconds and then comes to a stop. I can see a horizontal sync and csync but it appears the video signal is just a black screen.

I’ve also noticed that the CAS signal for the system memory is not there. Currently I’m assuming a possible memory fault so I will try swapping that out first. If it still doesn’t appear to be running then I will probably look into the ROM chip next.

All of this is under the assumption that the MSX2 should actually run fine even without the hic board present. Unfortunately I don’t have another MSX2 to test this theory.

This is going to be fun 😁

Posted on Leave a comment

Tandy TRS80 Model 100 added

I’ve had this one for a few months now but forgot to add it to my list. Don’t really know too much about these yet, so will be fun having a play and seeing what I can get it to do.

Apparently they were very popular with reporters and editors as it has a good keyboard and allowed them to write articles easily.

This one is in perfect condition. Think I’ll have to get a Wi-Fi modem hooked up to it and see what it’s like browsing some BBS’s